1 00:00:07,920 --> 00:00:10,640 [chirping] 2 00:00:19,160 --> 00:00:22,480 [President Obama] The first time I visited Kenya, about 30 years ago, 3 00:00:22,560 --> 00:00:23,720 I was a stranger. 4 00:00:25,200 --> 00:00:29,520 This was the land of my father, who had passed away and who I barely knew. 5 00:00:30,200 --> 00:00:31,280 But I met my family. 6 00:00:31,840 --> 00:00:33,920 I visited the village they had come from. 7 00:00:34,440 --> 00:00:36,040 I felt welcome everywhere. 8 00:00:36,920 --> 00:00:39,920 And as my sister and I spent a few days on safari, 9 00:00:40,000 --> 00:00:41,200 I felt something else. 10 00:00:41,880 --> 00:00:42,720 Awe. 11 00:00:44,360 --> 00:00:48,320 At the African bush that swept on forever, with wide open skies, 12 00:00:49,000 --> 00:00:51,760 and wildlife that never seemed to end. 13 00:00:53,800 --> 00:00:56,160 What a gift to see the world anew. 14 00:00:56,880 --> 00:01:00,240 To see the place where, ultimately, all of us come from. 15 00:01:02,400 --> 00:01:05,840 I'd like to take you to one special park in Kenya, 16 00:01:05,920 --> 00:01:08,520 to experience the heartbeat of Africa. 17 00:01:09,240 --> 00:01:12,640 A wilderness of boundless space, breathtaking beauty, 18 00:01:13,160 --> 00:01:15,480 and wildlife on an epic scale. 19 00:01:16,240 --> 00:01:18,000 Tsavo National Park. 20 00:01:20,640 --> 00:01:21,840 [elephant trumpets] 21 00:01:22,760 --> 00:01:24,160 [elephant trumpets] 22 00:01:24,240 --> 00:01:25,960 [growling] 23 00:01:26,040 --> 00:01:29,000 A land where the elephants are king. 24 00:01:29,920 --> 00:01:31,320 And everyone knows it. 25 00:01:32,000 --> 00:01:34,000 [tranquil music plays] 26 00:01:35,520 --> 00:01:38,080 In the East of Africa lies Kenya, 27 00:01:38,160 --> 00:01:42,480 home to a rich array of wildlife and breathtaking landscapes. 28 00:01:43,320 --> 00:01:45,200 In the south is Tsavo. 29 00:01:45,960 --> 00:01:49,400 Nearly 8,500 square miles, 30 00:01:49,480 --> 00:01:54,360 it's the size of a small country, and Kenya's largest national park. 31 00:01:54,440 --> 00:01:56,440 [tranquil music continues] 32 00:01:57,360 --> 00:02:00,600 To the west, the unforgettable sunsets 33 00:02:00,680 --> 00:02:04,120 behind Africa's highest mountain, Kilimanjaro. 34 00:02:04,720 --> 00:02:06,000 [growling] 35 00:02:07,920 --> 00:02:10,520 Lording over an ancient land of lava, 36 00:02:11,280 --> 00:02:12,360 volcanic hills, 37 00:02:13,640 --> 00:02:15,680 and sparkling oases. 38 00:02:18,120 --> 00:02:20,120 [tranquil music continues] 39 00:02:23,080 --> 00:02:26,680 And in the east, an endless haze of thorny scrub… 40 00:02:31,680 --> 00:02:34,000 traversed by life-giving rivers. 41 00:02:37,160 --> 00:02:41,120 Alongside them, the shady wall of the Yatta plateau, 42 00:02:42,200 --> 00:02:45,280 one of the longest lava flows in the world. 43 00:02:46,040 --> 00:02:48,040 [tranquil music continues] 44 00:02:50,560 --> 00:02:52,200 And everywhere you look, 45 00:02:52,280 --> 00:02:57,080 Tsavo's iconic bright red soil stamps its personality 46 00:02:57,160 --> 00:03:01,360 on everybody who lives in this extraordinary wilderness. 47 00:03:02,640 --> 00:03:04,640 [dramatic music plays] 48 00:03:19,280 --> 00:03:22,240 [elephants trumpeting] 49 00:03:22,320 --> 00:03:26,640 Tsavo is home to Kenya's largest elephant populations. 50 00:03:29,080 --> 00:03:33,360 Over 13,000 roam freely through this vast landscape. 51 00:03:35,960 --> 00:03:39,440 To find them, you have to know where to look. 52 00:04:01,600 --> 00:04:03,600 [tranquil music plays] 53 00:04:15,160 --> 00:04:16,280 Enjoying a swim, 54 00:04:17,000 --> 00:04:19,400 adolescent bulls let off some steam… 55 00:04:19,480 --> 00:04:21,480 [tranquil music continues] 56 00:04:30,360 --> 00:04:33,680 …like synchronized swimmers in liquid chocolate. 57 00:04:34,360 --> 00:04:36,360 [tranquil music continues] 58 00:04:40,000 --> 00:04:42,800 It's April. The watering holes are full. 59 00:04:49,320 --> 00:04:52,880 The rains may not return for six months or more. 60 00:04:54,520 --> 00:04:56,520 [tranquil music continues] 61 00:04:57,680 --> 00:05:00,600 As males get older, they prefer to go it alone. 62 00:05:04,080 --> 00:05:09,080 A few of them may go on to become the biggest tuskers to walk the Earth. 63 00:05:09,160 --> 00:05:10,120 [elephant trumpets] 64 00:05:13,000 --> 00:05:15,000 [low growling] 65 00:05:15,080 --> 00:05:19,480 This is Lugard, named by the rangers who monitor him. 66 00:05:21,680 --> 00:05:24,080 A 50-year-old "super tusker" 67 00:05:24,680 --> 00:05:27,240 and one of Kenya's national treasures. 68 00:05:27,840 --> 00:05:30,280 [low growling] 69 00:05:30,360 --> 00:05:34,520 Each tusk alone weighs well over 100 pounds. 70 00:05:35,240 --> 00:05:37,240 [tranquil music continues] 71 00:05:38,000 --> 00:05:42,920 These ambassadors of the elephant world have had to endure immense challenges… 72 00:05:47,040 --> 00:05:50,520 living through successive droughts, modern development, 73 00:05:50,600 --> 00:05:53,080 and poaching from the illegal ivory trade. 74 00:05:54,680 --> 00:05:56,680 [tranquil music continues] 75 00:05:59,680 --> 00:06:04,440 Today, there are believed to be just 30 super tuskers remaining across Africa. 76 00:06:04,520 --> 00:06:06,320 [low growling] 77 00:06:08,640 --> 00:06:11,160 And Tsavo is home to a third of them. 78 00:06:14,040 --> 00:06:16,800 Most are now living well into old age. 79 00:06:22,160 --> 00:06:25,800 National parks play a vital role in their protection. 80 00:06:30,440 --> 00:06:32,280 [low growling] 81 00:06:35,480 --> 00:06:37,040 [low growling] 82 00:06:37,120 --> 00:06:38,480 Over the coming months, 83 00:06:38,560 --> 00:06:42,800 Tsavo's extreme climate will test all the animals that live here. 84 00:06:47,080 --> 00:06:50,600 Only those that have adapted to its fast-changing conditions 85 00:06:50,680 --> 00:06:52,480 will survive the dry season. 86 00:06:56,680 --> 00:06:57,720 This hungry hornbill 87 00:06:57,800 --> 00:07:01,680 has developed an ingenious way of getting a bigger breakfast. 88 00:07:05,240 --> 00:07:06,520 But he can't do it alone. 89 00:07:18,640 --> 00:07:19,680 [squealing] 90 00:07:21,400 --> 00:07:22,360 [squealing] 91 00:07:25,600 --> 00:07:28,440 A family of dwarf mongooses. 92 00:07:28,520 --> 00:07:30,520 [upbeat suspenseful music plays] 93 00:07:37,720 --> 00:07:39,960 The hornbill is ready to go, 94 00:07:40,920 --> 00:07:42,800 but they are in no rush. 95 00:07:42,880 --> 00:07:44,880 [suspenseful music plays] 96 00:07:50,080 --> 00:07:51,240 He can only wait 97 00:07:52,240 --> 00:07:54,480 while the mongooses get ready for their day. 98 00:07:55,520 --> 00:07:57,520 [suspenseful music continues] 99 00:07:58,720 --> 00:08:02,640 They won't go anywhere until the signal is given. 100 00:08:03,240 --> 00:08:04,880 [mongoose squeals] 101 00:08:06,640 --> 00:08:08,400 At last, they're off. 102 00:08:10,320 --> 00:08:12,640 And right behind them, the hungry hornbill. 103 00:08:12,720 --> 00:08:14,720 [upbeat suspenseful music plays] 104 00:08:19,560 --> 00:08:22,720 The scampering mongooses stir up bugs in the undergrowth, 105 00:08:23,440 --> 00:08:24,480 and what they miss, 106 00:08:25,440 --> 00:08:26,520 he'll snap up, 107 00:08:27,840 --> 00:08:30,680 saving him the job of finding his own food. 108 00:08:32,000 --> 00:08:33,840 The mongooses don't seem to mind. 109 00:08:40,040 --> 00:08:42,360 Foraging together works for everyone. 110 00:08:43,480 --> 00:08:46,160 Especially when the landscape dries up 111 00:08:46,720 --> 00:08:48,720 and there's a lack of cover. 112 00:08:49,800 --> 00:08:51,480 [suspenseful music plays] 113 00:08:54,800 --> 00:08:56,800 The hornbill acts as a lookout. 114 00:08:57,360 --> 00:08:59,360 [suspenseful music intensifies] 115 00:09:00,600 --> 00:09:05,360 [squawking] 116 00:09:05,440 --> 00:09:08,720 One call sends everyone diving for cover. 117 00:09:08,800 --> 00:09:10,800 [suspenseful music continues] 118 00:09:22,920 --> 00:09:24,400 Of all the items on the menu, 119 00:09:25,600 --> 00:09:27,760 this appears to be a favorite. 120 00:09:28,680 --> 00:09:31,120 Giant African land snails, 121 00:09:32,760 --> 00:09:34,600 each up to six inches long. 122 00:09:36,240 --> 00:09:39,440 Some of the largest, juiciest snails in the world. 123 00:09:44,840 --> 00:09:46,040 Easy to catch too. 124 00:09:47,160 --> 00:09:49,280 These snails aren't going anywhere fast. 125 00:09:52,120 --> 00:09:55,200 But they are a tough nut to crack. 126 00:09:55,280 --> 00:09:56,560 [tense music plays] 127 00:09:58,160 --> 00:10:01,720 These mongooses have developed a special technique. 128 00:10:02,720 --> 00:10:04,080 [upbeat tense music plays] 129 00:10:06,520 --> 00:10:09,600 [snails thud] 130 00:10:09,680 --> 00:10:11,880 They use the wooden logs like an anvil 131 00:10:12,560 --> 00:10:14,600 to smash the snails against. 132 00:10:17,560 --> 00:10:22,160 Tsavo is one of the few places where this behavior has been observed. 133 00:10:22,240 --> 00:10:24,440 [upbeat tense music continues] 134 00:10:28,960 --> 00:10:31,880 The hornbill knows a dinner gong when he hears one. 135 00:10:31,960 --> 00:10:33,960 [upbeat tense music continues] 136 00:10:47,600 --> 00:10:52,120 The dry climate here means this isn't an easy place to make a living. 137 00:10:53,960 --> 00:10:58,000 So working together helps ensure they both get enough to eat 138 00:10:58,800 --> 00:11:00,720 as food becomes scarce. 139 00:11:10,880 --> 00:11:13,880 As the dry season tightens its grip on this vast park, 140 00:11:14,840 --> 00:11:17,360 the resource that's in most urgent need 141 00:11:18,880 --> 00:11:19,720 is water. 142 00:11:23,280 --> 00:11:27,160 To protect one of Tsavo's most critically endangered animals, 143 00:11:27,240 --> 00:11:30,240 this remote water hole is filled by rangers. 144 00:11:35,520 --> 00:11:36,880 As evening approaches, 145 00:11:36,960 --> 00:11:41,280 the stage is set for this shy creature to appear. 146 00:11:44,880 --> 00:11:46,880 [chirping] 147 00:11:51,760 --> 00:11:53,360 Black rhinoceros. 148 00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:55,920 A mother and her calf. 149 00:11:56,440 --> 00:11:57,320 [snorting] 150 00:11:59,280 --> 00:12:04,120 Using a sensitive night vision camera, we are able to see them in color. 151 00:12:09,600 --> 00:12:12,400 Youngsters follow their mothers' movements closely. 152 00:12:13,800 --> 00:12:15,200 They have an intense bond. 153 00:12:20,240 --> 00:12:22,440 Rhinos have poor vision at a distance… 154 00:12:24,560 --> 00:12:27,760 but an incredible sense of hearing and smell. 155 00:12:31,280 --> 00:12:33,320 [rhino sniffing] 156 00:12:33,400 --> 00:12:38,200 They curl their lips back to sense who's around in the night air. 157 00:12:38,280 --> 00:12:40,080 [suspenseful music plays] 158 00:12:40,160 --> 00:12:41,600 [rhinos snorting] 159 00:12:43,160 --> 00:12:45,320 More families arrive to take a drink. 160 00:12:46,080 --> 00:12:48,080 [suspenseful music continues] 161 00:12:50,000 --> 00:12:53,040 Dominant black rhinos are often territorial. 162 00:12:53,600 --> 00:12:55,120 [rhino growls] 163 00:12:58,960 --> 00:13:02,760 But some individuals are more feisty than others. 164 00:13:04,200 --> 00:13:06,200 [suspenseful music continues] 165 00:13:10,280 --> 00:13:14,200 There were once around 8,000 here in Tsavo. 166 00:13:18,320 --> 00:13:20,000 In the 1970s and '80s, 167 00:13:20,480 --> 00:13:23,560 poachers killed all but ten for their horn. 168 00:13:28,160 --> 00:13:32,720 A breeding program has since increased the population to over 100. 169 00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:39,600 These usually solitary creatures come to drink and socialize. 170 00:13:43,000 --> 00:13:44,440 Mothers greet friends. 171 00:13:46,400 --> 00:13:48,000 Calves meet playmates… 172 00:13:50,760 --> 00:13:51,920 [rhinos snorting] 173 00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:53,360 …and fathers. 174 00:13:54,080 --> 00:13:55,080 [growling] 175 00:13:58,360 --> 00:14:02,760 But when more males arrive, the atmosphere changes. 176 00:14:02,840 --> 00:14:05,120 [growling] 177 00:14:08,120 --> 00:14:09,320 During the dry season, 178 00:14:09,400 --> 00:14:12,080 unusually high numbers of rhinos gather here. 179 00:14:12,760 --> 00:14:15,280 They have bred so successfully 180 00:14:15,360 --> 00:14:18,640 that there's now increased competition for space… 181 00:14:18,720 --> 00:14:20,440 [rhinos growl] 182 00:14:20,520 --> 00:14:21,560 …and mates. 183 00:14:22,440 --> 00:14:24,960 [rhinos growl] 184 00:14:25,480 --> 00:14:27,480 [tense music plays] 185 00:14:28,560 --> 00:14:29,960 [rhino growls] 186 00:14:30,800 --> 00:14:31,800 [rhino growls] 187 00:14:32,440 --> 00:14:34,440 [tense music continues] 188 00:14:37,280 --> 00:14:38,600 [rhino growls] 189 00:14:38,680 --> 00:14:40,680 [tense music continues] 190 00:14:42,000 --> 00:14:43,880 [rhinos growl] 191 00:14:44,400 --> 00:14:46,560 [zebras squeal] 192 00:14:47,960 --> 00:14:49,640 [tense music intensifies] 193 00:14:50,360 --> 00:14:53,200 [rhinos growl] 194 00:14:58,800 --> 00:14:59,840 [rhino growls] 195 00:15:00,440 --> 00:15:02,440 [tense music continues] 196 00:15:03,320 --> 00:15:04,360 [rhino growls] 197 00:15:10,320 --> 00:15:13,720 One of the males makes his move on the mother with her calf, 198 00:15:15,240 --> 00:15:17,160 but she gives him a clear message. 199 00:15:23,280 --> 00:15:26,080 A dominant older male arrives at the water hole. 200 00:15:27,200 --> 00:15:29,240 Rangers call him Atoti. 201 00:15:34,720 --> 00:15:35,800 A young female. 202 00:15:37,360 --> 00:15:40,360 Too young to mate, she's not interested in him. 203 00:15:41,400 --> 00:15:43,400 [suspenseful music plays] 204 00:15:45,280 --> 00:15:47,200 [male rhino growls] 205 00:15:47,800 --> 00:15:48,920 [female rhino squeals] 206 00:15:49,680 --> 00:15:52,640 His frustration leads to hostility. 207 00:15:52,720 --> 00:15:55,000 [female rhino squeals] 208 00:15:55,560 --> 00:15:56,560 [male rhino growls] 209 00:15:57,960 --> 00:16:01,040 -[female rhino squeals] -[male rhino growls] 210 00:16:01,120 --> 00:16:02,600 [suspenseful music plays] 211 00:16:02,680 --> 00:16:03,800 [female rhino squeals] 212 00:16:03,880 --> 00:16:08,680 He uses his horn to try and hook her hind legs and trip her up. 213 00:16:09,240 --> 00:16:10,680 [female rhino squeals] 214 00:16:13,960 --> 00:16:15,080 [female rhino squeals] 215 00:16:16,040 --> 00:16:18,040 [suspenseful music continues] 216 00:16:26,560 --> 00:16:30,880 The other females and calves decide it's time to go. 217 00:16:30,960 --> 00:16:32,080 [female rhino squeals] 218 00:16:32,160 --> 00:16:34,160 [suspenseful music continues] 219 00:16:45,960 --> 00:16:48,120 The young female manages to outrun him. 220 00:16:58,680 --> 00:17:00,920 And Atoti cools off. 221 00:17:02,840 --> 00:17:03,680 [rhino snorts] 222 00:17:07,960 --> 00:17:09,640 As the dry season continues, 223 00:17:10,160 --> 00:17:14,320 many of the natural water sources around the park slowly disappear. 224 00:17:19,640 --> 00:17:24,880 But there is a special place to the north which is a permanent oasis. 225 00:17:31,120 --> 00:17:33,880 The cloud forests high in the Chyulu Hills 226 00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:36,240 rise out of the plains in Tsavo West. 227 00:17:40,320 --> 00:17:44,360 Formed from porous, volcanic rock, they absorb rainfall, 228 00:17:44,440 --> 00:17:46,520 creating underground reservoirs. 229 00:17:50,680 --> 00:17:54,760 It takes over 20 years for the water to seep through to the plains below… 230 00:17:55,480 --> 00:17:57,480 [tranquil music plays] 231 00:18:00,520 --> 00:18:02,960 …where it emerges in a constant supply… 232 00:18:06,760 --> 00:18:08,680 at Mzima Springs… 233 00:18:11,160 --> 00:18:14,720 a name that means "alive" in Swahili. 234 00:18:15,840 --> 00:18:17,840 [tranquil music continues] 235 00:18:37,640 --> 00:18:40,880 It's estimated that over 50 million gallons 236 00:18:40,960 --> 00:18:42,960 pour from the ground every day 237 00:18:43,760 --> 00:18:47,520 into crystal-clear pools buzzing with activity. 238 00:18:51,640 --> 00:18:53,640 [tranquil music continues] 239 00:18:55,920 --> 00:18:59,200 Fig trees provide food for the vervet monkeys. 240 00:19:00,400 --> 00:19:01,720 [tranquil music continues] 241 00:19:07,240 --> 00:19:10,680 And barbel wait below for falling fruit. 242 00:19:10,760 --> 00:19:12,760 [tranquil music continues] 243 00:19:19,680 --> 00:19:24,440 [monkeys chatter] 244 00:19:24,520 --> 00:19:26,520 [tranquil music continues] 245 00:19:29,120 --> 00:19:30,840 A bountiful paradise 246 00:19:31,400 --> 00:19:33,920 with enough food for everyone. 247 00:19:44,360 --> 00:19:46,000 But this magical pool 248 00:19:46,080 --> 00:19:50,040 belongs to a pod of 14 hippopotamuses, 249 00:19:51,080 --> 00:19:54,840 fiercely defended by the huge alpha male. 250 00:20:01,280 --> 00:20:04,080 He can hold his breath for up to five minutes 251 00:20:05,320 --> 00:20:07,880 and spend more than half his life submerged. 252 00:20:12,000 --> 00:20:14,200 Normally found in muddy pools, 253 00:20:14,280 --> 00:20:20,200 it's incredibly rare to see the intimate lives of these shy creatures. 254 00:20:24,920 --> 00:20:26,920 [tranquil music plays] 255 00:20:29,000 --> 00:20:34,240 Early every morning, Dad leads his family to deeper, cooler water. 256 00:20:35,200 --> 00:20:37,200 [tranquil music continues] 257 00:20:44,920 --> 00:20:47,280 Hippos can weigh more than a family car, 258 00:20:48,160 --> 00:20:51,240 but underwater, they are surprisingly graceful. 259 00:20:51,760 --> 00:20:53,760 [jaunty music plays] 260 00:20:57,440 --> 00:21:00,000 The adults sleep during the hottest part of the day. 261 00:21:02,160 --> 00:21:04,520 The youngsters play right through it. 262 00:21:05,840 --> 00:21:07,480 [jaunty music continues] 263 00:21:10,560 --> 00:21:12,480 And when they get too boisterous, 264 00:21:12,560 --> 00:21:14,840 the adults keep them in line. 265 00:21:15,800 --> 00:21:17,880 [jaunty music fades] 266 00:21:26,880 --> 00:21:31,080 Without the hippos, the diversity of life here wouldn't exist… 267 00:21:33,360 --> 00:21:35,960 because they bring something vital to this water. 268 00:21:40,240 --> 00:21:42,400 A natural fertilizer. 269 00:21:44,480 --> 00:21:47,720 It might not do much for the crystal-clear visibility… 270 00:21:50,160 --> 00:21:55,120 but this is the very stuff that keeps Mzima's ecosystem thriving. 271 00:21:55,200 --> 00:21:56,520 [upbeat jazz music plays] 272 00:21:57,680 --> 00:21:59,800 It provides nutrients for the plants 273 00:22:00,400 --> 00:22:02,360 and food for the insects and fish… 274 00:22:03,440 --> 00:22:05,440 [upbeat jazz music continues] 275 00:22:06,400 --> 00:22:09,040 …who follow the hippos for the freshest supply. 276 00:22:14,600 --> 00:22:18,680 Fresh dung isn't the only food that hippos offer the fish here at Mzima. 277 00:22:20,160 --> 00:22:22,160 [tranquil music plays] 278 00:22:24,640 --> 00:22:28,280 By opening his mouth, this hippo invites the fish 279 00:22:28,360 --> 00:22:31,200 inside his huge, powerful jaws. 280 00:22:34,120 --> 00:22:36,600 They forage for scraps stuck between his teeth, 281 00:22:38,560 --> 00:22:41,160 demonstrating an extraordinary level of trust. 282 00:22:43,040 --> 00:22:45,040 [tranquil music continues] 283 00:22:48,960 --> 00:22:52,480 Their rasping mouthparts also clean the hippos' hide, 284 00:22:53,840 --> 00:22:58,400 their toenails, their cracked feet, and all those important places. 285 00:23:01,560 --> 00:23:05,840 A full meal in exchange for a pedicure and polish. 286 00:23:06,360 --> 00:23:08,360 [tranquil music continues] 287 00:23:18,560 --> 00:23:21,400 The small green oasis at Mzima Springs 288 00:23:21,480 --> 00:23:25,760 provides water to the fortunate animals who live in this corner of the park. 289 00:23:29,160 --> 00:23:33,680 But it's a different story for those who roam across its arid center. 290 00:23:38,760 --> 00:23:41,000 Elephants have incredible memories, 291 00:23:41,920 --> 00:23:46,560 guiding them to areas where they've found food and water in previous dry seasons. 292 00:23:48,960 --> 00:23:52,720 But in the middle of the park, they face a daunting obstacle. 293 00:23:56,560 --> 00:23:58,680 Tsavo was established in two parts, 294 00:23:59,880 --> 00:24:01,200 East and West, 295 00:24:02,640 --> 00:24:06,640 sliced down the middle by an existing road and railway. 296 00:24:07,360 --> 00:24:10,120 [engines roar] 297 00:24:10,200 --> 00:24:12,840 The busy road is now a dangerous barrier for wildlife 298 00:24:12,920 --> 00:24:14,760 moving between the two parks. 299 00:24:19,360 --> 00:24:23,720 In 2017, a new railway was completed alongside the old one, 300 00:24:24,400 --> 00:24:29,280 linking Kenya's largest port, Mombasa, and her capital, Nairobi. 301 00:24:31,920 --> 00:24:36,480 The steep embankments and fences prevent the animals from crossing the tracks, 302 00:24:36,960 --> 00:24:38,480 restricting their movements. 303 00:24:42,600 --> 00:24:47,280 They can only reach the other side via specially-built underpasses. 304 00:24:48,200 --> 00:24:49,640 [horn blares] 305 00:24:55,720 --> 00:24:56,640 [horn blares] 306 00:24:56,720 --> 00:25:00,280 Some of the elephants are brave enough to make it through the obstacles. 307 00:25:08,480 --> 00:25:11,400 Across Africa, there's a boom in infrastructure 308 00:25:11,480 --> 00:25:13,560 that is affecting its wild places. 309 00:25:17,280 --> 00:25:20,120 It's why the size of Tsavo is so important. 310 00:25:22,160 --> 00:25:25,600 It's big enough to offer alternative feeding grounds. 311 00:25:27,760 --> 00:25:31,600 But it's not only the larger animals that travel huge distances 312 00:25:31,680 --> 00:25:32,920 at this time of year. 313 00:25:36,840 --> 00:25:40,120 It's July, Tsavo's driest month. 314 00:25:41,080 --> 00:25:44,440 [chirping] 315 00:25:49,960 --> 00:25:51,840 On the parched plains to the east, 316 00:25:52,560 --> 00:25:55,960 a male sandgrouse and his mate are raising their family. 317 00:26:01,920 --> 00:26:05,480 As ground-nesting birds, these newly hatched chicks 318 00:26:05,560 --> 00:26:08,320 will get up and walk within hours. 319 00:26:12,680 --> 00:26:16,040 With temperatures reaching up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, 320 00:26:16,120 --> 00:26:18,920 they must find shade and a safe hiding place. 321 00:26:24,440 --> 00:26:26,960 Their father faces an urgent challenge. 322 00:26:27,760 --> 00:26:29,200 Find drinking water, 323 00:26:29,280 --> 00:26:31,360 or his chicks will die. 324 00:26:31,440 --> 00:26:33,000 [birds chirping] 325 00:26:36,360 --> 00:26:38,840 He joins a flock of other sandgrouse, 326 00:26:39,640 --> 00:26:42,400 all in desperate search of the same thing. 327 00:26:43,440 --> 00:26:45,440 [tranquil music plays] 328 00:26:49,040 --> 00:26:51,800 They will fly up to 20 miles away… 329 00:26:56,880 --> 00:26:59,120 to the mighty Galana River. 330 00:26:59,200 --> 00:27:01,200 [tranquil music continues] 331 00:27:11,200 --> 00:27:12,160 [elephant trumpets] 332 00:27:15,720 --> 00:27:17,400 It's a lifeline for the animals 333 00:27:18,280 --> 00:27:20,280 as the dry season really bites. 334 00:27:20,360 --> 00:27:22,360 [tranquil music continues] 335 00:27:23,160 --> 00:27:25,160 [birds squawking] 336 00:27:26,400 --> 00:27:30,120 The sandgrouse come here in huge numbers at this time of year. 337 00:27:30,200 --> 00:27:32,200 [birds squawking] 338 00:27:32,280 --> 00:27:34,520 [tranquil music continues] 339 00:27:37,560 --> 00:27:39,680 At the water's edge, there are threats. 340 00:27:44,680 --> 00:27:49,360 Keeping close to his flock means that hundreds of eyes keep a lookout. 341 00:27:52,200 --> 00:27:54,720 He can hold up to two tablespoons in his throat, 342 00:27:55,360 --> 00:27:57,560 but it isn't enough for his three chicks. 343 00:27:57,640 --> 00:28:01,120 [snorting] 344 00:28:04,520 --> 00:28:06,240 He wades in a little further 345 00:28:07,000 --> 00:28:08,800 for a remarkable trick. 346 00:28:12,120 --> 00:28:13,760 Rocking backwards and forwards, 347 00:28:14,520 --> 00:28:17,120 he absorbs water into his breast feathers. 348 00:28:18,800 --> 00:28:23,520 Their specially-adapted spiral shape soak up water like a sponge. 349 00:28:25,080 --> 00:28:27,440 Fifteen minutes to fill up, and he's off… 350 00:28:29,640 --> 00:28:32,360 flying home fully-laden with water. 351 00:28:33,160 --> 00:28:35,160 [tranquil music plays] 352 00:28:45,880 --> 00:28:49,200 One by one, the birds peel off from their flock. 353 00:28:49,720 --> 00:28:51,720 [tranquil music continues] 354 00:28:54,320 --> 00:28:56,560 -[sandgrouse chirps] -He calls to his mate. 355 00:28:56,640 --> 00:28:58,240 [sandgrouse chirping] 356 00:29:00,920 --> 00:29:04,080 She guides him to where she's hidden their thirsty chicks. 357 00:29:08,400 --> 00:29:10,520 [tranquil music plays] 358 00:29:13,960 --> 00:29:15,640 Dad to the rescue. 359 00:29:15,720 --> 00:29:17,720 [tranquil music continues] 360 00:29:26,080 --> 00:29:29,200 Desperate for a drink, the chicks crowd their father, 361 00:29:29,720 --> 00:29:33,000 stripping precious water from his feathers with their beaks. 362 00:29:34,280 --> 00:29:36,360 [tranquil music continues] 363 00:29:38,840 --> 00:29:42,120 He will make this arduous journey every day 364 00:29:42,200 --> 00:29:43,800 for the next two months… 365 00:29:46,840 --> 00:29:51,240 until the chicks are big enough to make the flight to water themselves. 366 00:30:00,440 --> 00:30:02,440 [tense music plays] 367 00:30:03,400 --> 00:30:05,640 In recent years, Kenya's climate 368 00:30:05,720 --> 00:30:08,720 has become less predictable and more extreme. 369 00:30:11,840 --> 00:30:13,840 [tense music continues] 370 00:30:15,600 --> 00:30:17,400 It's the height of the dry season, 371 00:30:18,520 --> 00:30:20,040 and there's no end in sight. 372 00:30:21,600 --> 00:30:23,560 [tense music continues] 373 00:30:24,800 --> 00:30:29,000 Some have found a way to find the few remaining green leaves. 374 00:30:30,000 --> 00:30:32,280 The gerenuk tiptoes for a nibble. 375 00:30:33,560 --> 00:30:36,160 They may go their whole lives without drinking water. 376 00:30:39,120 --> 00:30:41,040 Nicknamed the "giraffe gazelle," 377 00:30:41,760 --> 00:30:45,320 they rely on acrobatics and their long necks 378 00:30:45,400 --> 00:30:48,920 to reach succulent leaves that other grazers cannot. 379 00:30:51,880 --> 00:30:53,840 Even for them, it's slim pickings. 380 00:30:59,680 --> 00:31:03,680 Tsavo's red earth is sucked upwards in the swirling dust devils. 381 00:31:09,960 --> 00:31:11,840 Larger animals, like the buffalo, 382 00:31:12,360 --> 00:31:14,920 have to keep moving to find food and water. 383 00:31:21,920 --> 00:31:25,080 The herds join up, over a thousand strong. 384 00:31:26,680 --> 00:31:28,680 [tense music plays] 385 00:31:32,880 --> 00:31:36,920 They head towards the Galana River, which flows year-round. 386 00:31:40,000 --> 00:31:42,000 [birds squawking] 387 00:31:47,440 --> 00:31:51,720 Stragglers will be picked off by Tsavo's most infamous predators. 388 00:32:05,040 --> 00:32:08,920 When the old railway was built, more than 120 years ago, 389 00:32:09,000 --> 00:32:12,240 this territory was terrorized by two lions… 390 00:32:14,520 --> 00:32:17,200 known as the "Man-eaters of Tsavo." 391 00:32:17,760 --> 00:32:19,760 [tense music plays] 392 00:32:21,520 --> 00:32:22,400 Legend has it 393 00:32:23,280 --> 00:32:26,680 they devoured 135 railway workers, 394 00:32:28,320 --> 00:32:30,520 though the true figure is probably far lower. 395 00:32:32,360 --> 00:32:33,760 Famous for their mohawks, 396 00:32:34,360 --> 00:32:36,480 a trait shared by their descendants today. 397 00:32:36,560 --> 00:32:38,560 [tense music continues] 398 00:32:40,560 --> 00:32:44,760 Their looks are thought to have been shaped by the thick scrub they live in. 399 00:32:48,000 --> 00:32:52,000 This shorter mane is less likely to snare on the thorny undergrowth. 400 00:32:53,600 --> 00:32:55,840 It also keeps them cooler in the heat. 401 00:33:00,360 --> 00:33:03,920 But even the toughest predator struggles at this time of year. 402 00:33:04,000 --> 00:33:06,000 [tense music continues] 403 00:33:20,120 --> 00:33:24,480 The pride's water hole has become a pool of sticky mud. 404 00:33:29,720 --> 00:33:33,200 Many of their prey have left to find water elsewhere. 405 00:33:35,040 --> 00:33:38,200 These last dregs will sustain them for now. 406 00:33:49,560 --> 00:33:51,560 [tense music plays] 407 00:33:54,320 --> 00:33:56,400 Across the dry plains of Tsavo East, 408 00:33:57,280 --> 00:34:02,960 a group of bull elephants head toward the remote northern reaches of the park. 409 00:34:04,040 --> 00:34:06,040 [tense music continues] 410 00:34:11,720 --> 00:34:15,680 This is the most wild and inaccessible area. 411 00:34:18,480 --> 00:34:20,480 [tense music continues] 412 00:34:24,040 --> 00:34:27,680 Vast, rocky monoliths, millions of years old, 413 00:34:28,280 --> 00:34:30,800 rise from the dry, thorny scrub. 414 00:34:32,600 --> 00:34:34,600 [tense music continues] 415 00:34:45,280 --> 00:34:49,080 Each elephant remembers routes they have taken through the years… 416 00:34:53,880 --> 00:34:56,040 passed down through generations. 417 00:35:00,160 --> 00:35:03,600 Their well-trodden trails are visible from the air, 418 00:35:05,080 --> 00:35:07,800 creating a network through the barren landscape. 419 00:35:10,760 --> 00:35:12,760 [soaring music plays] 420 00:35:22,000 --> 00:35:24,760 Large bulls can go several days without a drink, 421 00:35:25,920 --> 00:35:31,200 allowing them to travel huge distances across drought-stricken bush. 422 00:35:31,280 --> 00:35:33,280 [soaring music continues] 423 00:35:39,600 --> 00:35:44,000 They have staked their lives on finding water when they arrive. 424 00:35:47,400 --> 00:35:49,880 But the Tiva River has run dry. 425 00:35:51,760 --> 00:35:54,360 Now, it's just a river of sand. 426 00:35:58,320 --> 00:36:00,280 Not a drop of water in sight. 427 00:36:04,160 --> 00:36:08,560 But the doum palms that flank this seasonal river are still green, 428 00:36:09,560 --> 00:36:12,680 suggesting there is water here somewhere. 429 00:36:14,080 --> 00:36:15,080 [elephant trumpets] 430 00:36:24,680 --> 00:36:27,160 And the wise old bulls know how to find it. 431 00:36:29,320 --> 00:36:31,000 [low growling] 432 00:36:32,000 --> 00:36:34,000 [tense music plays] 433 00:36:50,840 --> 00:36:53,120 Elephants have an incredible sense of smell. 434 00:36:54,000 --> 00:36:58,680 Millions of receptors in their trunks help guide them to water many miles away, 435 00:37:00,920 --> 00:37:05,360 and they can even sense it when it's buried several feet beneath the sand. 436 00:37:05,440 --> 00:37:07,440 [tranquil music plays] 437 00:37:14,880 --> 00:37:17,080 To get to it, they must dig. 438 00:37:17,160 --> 00:37:19,160 [tranquil music continues] 439 00:37:22,680 --> 00:37:26,720 As these wells become deeper, the groundwater seeps in. 440 00:37:26,800 --> 00:37:28,800 [tranquil music continues] 441 00:37:31,320 --> 00:37:33,880 Their trunk acts as a flexible straw, 442 00:37:34,560 --> 00:37:36,480 sucking up the sandy water. 443 00:37:40,720 --> 00:37:45,160 It seems they allow the sediment to sink down their trunks and separate, 444 00:37:47,120 --> 00:37:48,040 then blow it out. 445 00:37:48,120 --> 00:37:50,120 [soaring music plays] 446 00:38:03,480 --> 00:38:06,280 And enjoy pure, filtered water. 447 00:38:08,040 --> 00:38:10,040 [soaring music continues] 448 00:38:20,880 --> 00:38:24,440 Tantalizing for those watching from the sidelines. 449 00:38:25,240 --> 00:38:27,240 [soaring music continues] 450 00:38:36,520 --> 00:38:40,720 Once they've had their fill, the audience gets to take their turn. 451 00:38:42,480 --> 00:38:45,480 Baboons, always the first to the bar. 452 00:38:55,360 --> 00:38:59,520 Further down the course of the Tiva lies Bisadi waterfall. 453 00:39:01,000 --> 00:39:04,520 Dry, except for a few precious pools. 454 00:39:07,080 --> 00:39:08,320 It's eerily silent… 455 00:39:12,600 --> 00:39:15,040 until dawn breaks. 456 00:39:15,120 --> 00:39:19,000 [rustling] 457 00:39:19,080 --> 00:39:21,080 [tranquil music plays] 458 00:39:32,120 --> 00:39:35,880 It's as if the entire canyon comes under a spell. 459 00:39:38,680 --> 00:39:39,920 Red-billed quelea, 460 00:39:40,840 --> 00:39:44,360 the world's most abundant wild bird species. 461 00:39:44,440 --> 00:39:46,680 [birds squawking] 462 00:39:49,400 --> 00:39:50,240 It's September. 463 00:39:50,760 --> 00:39:52,160 As water sources dwindle, 464 00:39:52,760 --> 00:39:57,680 these nomadic super-colonies gather here in their millions. 465 00:39:58,960 --> 00:40:00,960 [tranquil music continues] 466 00:40:17,360 --> 00:40:18,840 With mesmerizing rhythm, 467 00:40:19,720 --> 00:40:24,240 they drink from these last pools of water, one beakful at a time. 468 00:40:26,360 --> 00:40:28,360 [dramatic music plays] 469 00:40:31,920 --> 00:40:34,800 This mass migration builds and builds 470 00:40:35,440 --> 00:40:37,360 towards the end of the dry season. 471 00:40:37,880 --> 00:40:39,880 [birds squawking] 472 00:40:46,400 --> 00:40:48,040 Creating chaos by the water, 473 00:40:49,320 --> 00:40:52,240 they spook anyone else who dares to drink here. 474 00:40:52,920 --> 00:40:54,920 -[birds squawking] -[elephant trumpets] 475 00:40:55,000 --> 00:40:57,000 [dramatic music continues] 476 00:41:11,160 --> 00:41:13,160 [dramatic music fades] 477 00:41:16,720 --> 00:41:20,760 Their sheer numbers bend the branches of surrounding trees. 478 00:41:27,000 --> 00:41:28,800 They are prisoners to this place 479 00:41:29,960 --> 00:41:32,480 for as long as the water lasts. 480 00:41:54,800 --> 00:41:58,320 The air is heavy with anticipation. 481 00:42:02,160 --> 00:42:03,840 [tranquil music plays] 482 00:42:03,920 --> 00:42:07,040 Then, a symbol of hope. 483 00:42:09,520 --> 00:42:11,040 In the parched landscape, 484 00:42:11,120 --> 00:42:16,720 the baobab trees throw out green leaves and extravagant white flowers. 485 00:42:22,680 --> 00:42:24,360 Change is in the air. 486 00:42:27,360 --> 00:42:29,000 And everyone can sense it. 487 00:42:29,080 --> 00:42:31,080 [tranquil music continues] 488 00:42:38,120 --> 00:42:40,240 And finally in October, 489 00:42:40,320 --> 00:42:42,640 after six months of absence, 490 00:42:44,240 --> 00:42:45,120 rain… 491 00:42:47,400 --> 00:42:50,680 building in the hills and mountains of Tsavo West 492 00:42:52,120 --> 00:42:55,080 and on the plains in Tsavo East. 493 00:42:56,960 --> 00:42:58,960 [dramatic music plays] 494 00:43:19,040 --> 00:43:22,360 The dry, sandy Tiva flows again. 495 00:43:26,080 --> 00:43:29,520 Cascading over Bisadi canyon, where the quelea drank, 496 00:43:30,520 --> 00:43:32,680 the waterfall comes alive. 497 00:43:33,320 --> 00:43:35,320 [dramatic music swells] 498 00:44:14,120 --> 00:44:17,560 For the next few weeks, this river will keep flowing, 499 00:44:18,160 --> 00:44:19,760 rejuvenating the land. 500 00:44:26,960 --> 00:44:28,960 [dramatic music fades] 501 00:44:41,320 --> 00:44:43,560 The drama turns to relief. 502 00:44:46,200 --> 00:44:49,480 From barren desert to painted paradise. 503 00:44:51,760 --> 00:44:54,880 It's the extremes in Tsavo that are so magical. 504 00:44:59,640 --> 00:45:01,440 Rinsed of its red dust, 505 00:45:02,120 --> 00:45:06,080 morning glory smothers the park with her floral carpet. 506 00:45:06,680 --> 00:45:08,680 [tranquil music plays] 507 00:45:12,240 --> 00:45:16,200 And a blizzard of pioneer white butterflies arrive. 508 00:45:20,680 --> 00:45:24,640 Millions fill the skies on a journey towards the coast. 509 00:45:24,720 --> 00:45:26,760 [tranquil music continues] 510 00:45:31,120 --> 00:45:32,760 Like a winged relay race, 511 00:45:32,840 --> 00:45:35,840 new generations emerge with the fresh growth 512 00:45:35,920 --> 00:45:38,440 and continue the journey their parents started. 513 00:45:38,520 --> 00:45:39,920 [tranquil music continues] 514 00:45:49,160 --> 00:45:53,800 Dancing across the flowers, these huge swarms in the wet season 515 00:45:53,880 --> 00:45:56,440 are vital for the productivity of the park… 516 00:46:01,040 --> 00:46:02,240 pollinating as they go 517 00:46:03,120 --> 00:46:06,200 and providing an easy meal for insect-eaters. 518 00:46:06,280 --> 00:46:07,880 [tranquil music continues] 519 00:46:17,600 --> 00:46:18,720 There's time to play… 520 00:46:18,800 --> 00:46:20,800 [tranquil music continues] 521 00:46:25,480 --> 00:46:28,160 …and raise the next generation. 522 00:46:30,320 --> 00:46:31,200 A baby boom. 523 00:46:34,200 --> 00:46:37,800 Living evidence that when it comes to protecting wilderness, 524 00:46:38,720 --> 00:46:39,960 size matters. 525 00:46:40,040 --> 00:46:42,040 [tranquil music continues] 526 00:46:45,800 --> 00:46:50,160 The bigger the park, the more species will call it home. 527 00:46:51,920 --> 00:46:55,560 The larger the gene pool, the healthier the animals. 528 00:46:57,200 --> 00:46:59,080 [trumpeting] 529 00:47:00,720 --> 00:47:04,600 In recent years, landowners surrounding Tsavo National Park 530 00:47:04,680 --> 00:47:08,920 have joined forces to create the wider Tsavo Conservation Area, 531 00:47:09,520 --> 00:47:11,680 doubling the protected wild space 532 00:47:11,760 --> 00:47:16,040 and allowing animals to roam in safety beyond its borders. 533 00:47:18,040 --> 00:47:20,040 [tranquil music continues] 534 00:47:25,440 --> 00:47:29,760 It's only by continuing to protect vast wilderness areas like Tsavo 535 00:47:29,840 --> 00:47:32,840 and creating new parks of similar scale 536 00:47:32,920 --> 00:47:37,240 that we can secure a future for nature on this planet. 537 00:47:37,320 --> 00:47:39,320 [tranquil music continues]